One of the struggles I had in Morocco was just trying to remember who was in charge and obtaining some understanding of Moroccan history. This may be more history than you wanted to know but it is important to understand what we see and why we are visiting certain spots. It is like a visitor going to Washington, D.C. Naturally you would show him the Washington Memorial and try to explain why this man was important to the country. Also, much of the purpose of travel is learn about the social, governmental, and religious structures which make up the society. This little bit of history helps.
Our first real stop was in Rebat, the current capital of Morocco chosen by the French in the early part of the 20th century (yep, early 1900's). Of course there were people living here before that. Islam plays a very important role in the history of Morocco and thus in the Chellah Necropolis, one of the oldest parts of the city you find this very impressive minaret on the zaouia (religious school). The storks may be the only things living here now but they are not in-charge. Anyway, another thing you will not is that minarets in Morocco are square, not round as you find them in the rest of the middle east.
About 1284 the first Merinid caliph chose the Chellah Necropolis for a mosque and burial place of himself and his wife.
But even before the Muslims showed up the Romans founded a settlement here and called it Sala Colonia which today is covered by these beautiful orange flowers and green vegetation.
Another historical event you have to keep in mind when thinking about Moroccan history is the Lisbon (Portugal) earthquake in 1755. It did a lot of damage in Morocco and it destroyed the Muslim community living there at the time. It has been abandoned since then.
The French, English, Spanish, and Germans carved up most of "dark Africa" in the 19th Century - since they were naturally superior to the people currently living there. Most of north Africa was left alone because it had a rich history of culture, civilization, and perhaps more importantly an established working government. Thus Morocco was spared, at least initially, being colonized by the Europeans. (Now, I know there are some exceptions so don't get all bent out of shape telling me about the Portuguese settlement on the east coast, etc. Those were very small enclaves and exceptions to the general rule.) By the turn of the 20th century, however, Morocco was in chaos and the European governments decided it was time to make their move. By the Treaty of Fez Morocco was carved up - by the French, British, Germans and Spanish - between France, which was given control over most of Morocco, and Spain which controlled the south. In order to solidify its control the French poured resources into the country and actually made it a province of France. The French changed the school system and made a lot of improvements which are seen to this day. French, along with Arabic became the official language. When the ruler, Sultan Moulay Youssef died in 1927 his 18 year old son became the Sultan. The new Sultan ruled, under French auspices, until 1953 when the French, thought they would have more control over the country if the Sultan abdicated to his eldest son. Mohammed refused and was exiled to Madagascar. Civil discord followed and on 16 November 1955, the legitimate Sultan returned to Morocco to a hero's welcome and became King Mohammed V in 1956.
Mohammed V is one of most venerated figures in Morocco today. Mounted soldiers guard the gates to his
tomb in Rebat.
The most major street in every city in the country has the name "Mohammed V". He was a good and great ruler.
The Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the father of Moroccan independence, was built by his son, Hassan II. It is devoted to the history of the Alaouite dynasty which was founded in 1669 and currently rules Morocco.
When the beloved King Mohammed V died in 1961 his son, Hassan II became the King of Morocco. He ruled for 38 years and one of his greatest achievements was to keep the fundamentalist in check. He was able to do this because he could trace his lineage to the Prophet Mohammed - no easy task since Mohammed had no sons but he did have a daughter, Fatima. Moulay Idriss, a descendent of Fatima, managed to escape death in a religious war between the Sunni and Shiite Muslims over who is the rightful heir to the Prophet. In the Arabic culture the oldest son is considered to be the heir to his father's position in life. The question arose when the Prophet Mohammed died as to who should lead Islam. The Shiite faction decided that Fatima's husband, Ali, was the rightful heir. Idriss I, a decendant of Ali, came to Morocco and converted the Berbers to Islam. Moulay Idriss I is buried in Idriss just a few miles from Volbulis where he had originally saught refuge. Only Muslims can enter his tomb. It is a lot more complicated than this but the important thing to keep in mind is King Hassan's claim to be a descendent of the Prophet gives him great authority in a strongly religious Islamic country.
Hassan II was a great King and did a lot to modernize Morocco and brought stability to the government and started the process for a constitutional monarchy similar to Great Britain. For 37 years this is the only leadership the people knew. Remember they built the Mosque of Hassan II in honor of his 60th birthday. Hassan II was buried with his father in the Mausoleum of Mohammed V.
When the individual who personifies your national being for two generations dies there is naturally going to be some concern how his young son is going to weather the waves arising from the storms created by the various political factions which have been stifled for so long. Well, if you are related to the Prophet Mohammed, the grandson of the liberator of your country, and the appointed heir by the most beloved king, you have a step up on the opposition. So when King Hassan II died in July 1999, his son became King Mohammed VI.
You see pictures of the past and current kings everywhere.
Thoughout the country we would see pictures of King Hassan II together with his son King Mohammed VI.
So here you are, large photographs of Hassan II and Mohammed VI hanging conspicuously above the front entrance to our hotel in Marrakech. Likewise we would see billboards along the highway with pictures of the two kings.
But, beyond that, Mohammed VI has made some bold political choices as well. He is a law school graduate - which, by my way of thinking, speaks well of his qualifications. Then to solidify his support he married a beautiful commoner who happened to be a Berber - the largest ethnic group in the country - from Fez, one of the country's holy cities. The fact is that Mohammed VI had attended college at the same time, and may have even taken some classes with, his future bride. She was a school teacher before they got married. They now have a baby son and from what I could tell from my brief stay in this lovely country his position is secure.
From time to time various parts of Morocco were ruled by different Saltans too numerous to mention. One of the more respected is Mouley Ismail who ruled at the time of Louis XIV of France. He is buried in the Mausoleum of Ismail in Meknes.
let me know.
Belli at the Grand Titons, June 2015