Tinerhir and the Gorges


Updated: 30 Aug 2015)


While heading out of the desert stoped in many villages while we headed
toward the Stone Mountains on narrow one track dusty roads we finally arrive in
Tinehir where we will spend two nights in a hotel with heated rooms and hot showers.


Our jeeps race across the desert which has no roads or tracks to follow.
The drivers want to show us their driving skills in the wide open spaces.

We stopped outside Fezzou at a cemetary. The burial rites of the Moroccan
Muslims are traditional and also unique. Among Muslims the burial takes place
one day fter death. The body is covered with a virgin white fabric and taken to
the cemetary by the men. No women participate in this part of the ceremony. We
are told this is because women are too emotional and are wailing aand crying and
can't pray. The grave of everyone, whether you are a king or desert nomad, is
one hand four fingers wide. The body is placed in the ground facing Mecca. A
stone is placed at both the head and foot of the grave. It is customary to go
to the cemetary before going to the mosque on Friday. Flowers are not put on
the grave but the family gives money to the iman for the poor instead.


Outside Fezzou, don't look for this village on the map, we make a visit to a farm
to see the manner in which the irrigation system works.


This farmer had a cow and a couple of goats.

      
Two children stand in front of a blooming almond tree. After taking their picture
they wanted us to give them ball point pens - a favorate gift to give children and
even adults. We are shown the pumping station which draws water from a well
12 meters deep. The family consisting of the father and his two adult sons and
their wives and children are able to draw water for their personal consumption.
The taking of water is strictly regulated - everyone has his scheduled day and
amount to be drawn.


We stopped for lunch in Alnif. As you can see, this town depends
upon fossel hunters for its existance.


This was a welcome sight after riding a full day through the desert and over
the Stone Mountains. Warm rooms and hot showers before we go out for dinner.

First thing in the morning we took a walk
through the old Jewish quarter in Tinehir. Most of the Jews left in 1967
but walking through a market is always a great adventure.


The craftsmen are up early and working at their trade.


Carrying produce on your head is easier than in the hands.


This appears to be a group of young women. As they
approached us their male escort told them to cover their faces.


Working men take a break for lunch over a
large bowl of couscous filled with meat and vegitables.

Naturally we are taken to another carpet shop. This time, however,
The carpets are woven by the women of the Touareg tribe, and are not Arabic.



Blue men serve us mint tea while they display
their rugs. Bellows are used to heat the coals to heat the water
as the tea ceremony is explained by our host.


The Blue Men, Touareg, nomadic Bedouin traders,
describe the intricacies of hand woven rugs. Berber rugs are woven, not tied,
and the colors are more earth tones and come in many sizes


Ed is shown that for the price of one he
actually gets two carpets. They are so finely woven that you can show one side in
the summer and then turn them over and have a different carpet in the winter.
But he makes it clear he is definately not interested in buying a carpet.

The Gorges are river canyons in the Atlas Mountains which are treasured
locations for vacationers trying to escape the summer heat. Rivers of melting mountain snow provides
natural air conditioning. Today we visit the Gorges of Tudra. Of course, it is winter in Morocco in
so the days are naturally cold but the scenery is just as beautiful.


As we headed to the Gorges of Tudra we
saw this "cammel crossing" sign. The only one in Morocco


As our bus drives into the mountains we have
a view of the oasis created by the river flowing from the mountains.


The homes are build on the side of the bluffs,
or into the desert so all tillable land can be cultivated.


Incongurity of cultures: Woman coming home with a donkey
laiden with firewood talking on a cell phone.


Our guide riding a donkey at the Gorges Tudra


The decorated doors of our restaurant at
the head of the Gorges of Turdra


The river just springs from under ground to form the river gorge.


When we drive out of the mountains and return to Tinerhir
we follow the river and can clearly see how it creates oasis Tudra


The river provides life giving water to thousands
before it disappears beneath the sands of the Sahara


Decorating the body with Henna is common; especially
for weddings and festivals


Women decorate their hands with Henna


Henna made from a vegitable dye which lasts about a week.
After the decoration is drawn it is necessary to dry the design over hot coals


Henna decorations take many forms


Being decorated with Henna is the Moroccan equivilent
to having your nails done before dinner.

The next day we take off in our comfortable bus and head west. Our first stop is to
transfer to a very old rusted 4 x 4 jeep which will take us up a one lane gravel road into the
mountains to see the Gorges du Dades. It is very cold and the jeep has no heater.


As we travel into the Gorges du Dades we see
a communal grainery for the village


No bridges here, just drive through the raging river.


We stop and get out in the rain for a photo of the valley.
Everyone is huddling against the rain.


As we drive through the small mountain villages I
notice that neither the rain nor cold stop the men
from their morning social over mint tea. This is when a
hooded jallaba comes in real handy.


The river flows out of the mountains. See the layers
of sedimentary rock turned on their sides as the mountains are being pushed up?


It is raining and cold in the mountains and I get
out of the jeep just long enough at the headwaters of the Gorges du Dades to take a picture.

As we drive down the mountain road we are told we will be treated to
a Berber Pizza. We stop in a small village and go to the home of a Berber family.

We are treated to "Berber pizza" made by hand and cooked
in an oven fueled with wood gathered from the mountainside


As we wait for the pizza we are treated to hot mint tea
as we sit covered in blankets in our host's living room.


Whether we are in a castle, or shop in the souk, or the
humble home in a small village, a guest is always served mint tea.
It is a symbol of hospitality and considered very ill-mannered to refuse it.


Spring is coming to Morocco and the almund trees are in bloom


The Kasba Amerhidil at the Skoura oasis was built in the 11th century.


In the Sahara the term "Kasbah means "house".
In the north and west it is a fortification. The Kasba [name for "home" in Sahara Morocco] is made
of pressed mud and decorated with symbols of the Berber tribe to which it belongs

The iman is the leader of a Muslem congregation. One becomes an iman by studying in the Medrasa
or, in the country as in this case, by learning the Koran by memorization. To be certified as an iman
the leader must pass a test given by the Minister of Religion which demonstrates he knows both Islamic and Moroccan law. The position of iman is one of family heritage in the small towns and villages.

We are taken to the home of an iman for lunch


The iman's brother, also studying to become an iman, pours mint tea


Our host, the iman, is most gracious


We are treated to a demonstration of a Berber wedding
The marriages are frequently arranged and the bride
and groom do not meet each other until after the ceremony


The iman's wife blushed with embarrassment when the bride
and groom, as is an American custom, kissed after the wedding

Come back again, this page is still under construction.


Links to other Moroccan Adventures:


If you have any questions, or comments, I would be interested in hearing from you. Just let me know.


This page was created by Bob "Belli" Frazee

Bob at Grand Tetons, 2015
Belli at the Grand Titons, June 2015


Since September 4, 2005, you are visitor number

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